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There are numerous experienced snake keepers that adore adult corn snakes because of the wide range of attractive colors and patterns.
Corn snakes are often referred to as red rat snakes since they are directly connected to rat snakes (relatives in the family Elaphe). They are mostly spotted on the ground and are active at dusk and dawn.
These snakes are very long in length and are native to the southeastern United States. These snakes are generally docile and allow people to handle them. When attacked, particularly in the wild, they may vibrate their tails as a protection strategy, just like venomous snakes in New Jersey.
Corn and rat snakes, like other snakes, are expert evaders. They'll press their noses against the lid, probing for flaws and small gaps to escape. Thus, the lid's fit is crucial. If a snake escapes its cage, it may become lost or injured. A snake that has escaped will most likely give your house guests a good shock.
After reading all about the habitat in overgrown fields and the life span of corn snakes, also read what do corn snakes eat and do all snakes lay eggs here on Kidadl.
Corn snake cage design is crucial for your reptile's long-term health. Why? If your corn snake's environment isn't correctly set up, it'll be more susceptible to a range of ailments. An incorrect cage design can cause stress, dehydration, scale rot, and respiratory sickness, among other problems. These problems can lead to your beloved and lovely pet snake's tragic demise. On the other hand, a decent environment may help keep your corn snake happy and healthy for many years.
You have four options when it comes to corn snake cage components, namely a glass terrarium, a plastic container, or a wooden cage. You may also construct your cage on your own with several materials. Building the snake cage on your own is not suggested if you are a novice. If this is your first-time raising corn snakes, you should invest in a reptile-specific cage.
Glass terrariums are low-priced and readily available. You can purchase them for your reptile from Petco, Petsmart, and other pet shops in your area. Glass terrariums give you the best possible view of your pet. By placing a heat lamp on the screen lid, you can quickly heat it as well. If you use an under-the-tank heater for a glass terrarium, you must be careful as the glass may fracture if it overheats. The glass terrarium's screen lid lets humid air escape, making temperature and humidity management in the cage more difficult.
Plastic cages are less brittle than glass cages and often survive longer. They are rigid on all edges and can hold hot temperatures better than glass terrariums (with gaps or grates for airflow). Heat pads and tapes can be used to warm them from underneath. There are also some plastic cages available that have heating systems to warm them. They also provide excellent seclusion for the corn snake, which is beneficial.
Corn snake cages must be at least 75 gal (283.9 l) in capacity and measure 48 x 18 x 22 in (121.9 x 45.7 x 55.8 cm). The cage must accommodate the length of the corn snake (Pantherophis Guttatus). The length of corn snakes ranges between 3-5 ft (0.9-1.5 m).
Given corn snakes' proclivity to climb, a taller enclosure would make an excellent home for them. Larvae and youngsters of this animal species have a predator aversion urge that causes them to remain concealed while they are young and defenseless. It also compels them to stay away from open areas, which are the most dangerous places for juvenile snakes. As a result, many experts advise keeping juvenile corn snakes in small cages. Breeders benefit from this habitat pattern, but pet owners do not as hatchlings are too young to be moved to a new home in the first place. When you bring a baby corn snake home, you may place it in a secure, adult-sized corn snake habitat. By offering enough hiding spots, you can fulfill their predator avoidance drive in their artificial habitat.
Corn snakes are reptiles, which means they have cold blood and are ectothermic. Ectotherms rely on their surroundings for the heat energy they need for normal metabolism. Low vitality, susceptibility to sickness, and sluggish recovery are common problems that reptiles face if they do not have access to proper, high-quality heat and humidity.
The ideal temperature for corn snakes is found on a gradient, with three temperature zones spread over the terrarium. This allows the snake to travel between zones as it sees fit. The surface temperature is 90°F (32.2°C), the ambient temperature is 78-82°F (25.6-27.8°C), and the temperature in the cool zone is 75°F (23.9°C ).
Corn snakes are extremely tolerant of chilly overnight temperatures, so you can turn off the heat at night. You can also purchase a decent infrared sensor that can give you immediate temperature readings wherever you point it. It is essential to set the temperature of the snake's enclosure a week prior to moving your snake into it.
Humidity levels often climb at night and fall throughout the day. Corn snakes thrive in humid environments that have 65-75 % humidity. Correct moisture levels aid in the prevention of dehydration, maintenance of pulmonary health, and healthy shedding of skin. Most corn snake care sources claim that corn snakes can survive in humidity levels of 40-60 %, but after reviewing the yearly average moisture levels in several places, it's become clear that this animal species enjoys higher humidity levels.
You can use a moist-retaining substrate for your snake's terrarium. Dry substrates such as aspen shavings and lignocel must not be used. On top of the substrate, you can add a layer of clean, chemical-free leaf litter. Leaf litter is an excellent way to keep humidity in the snake's home while also giving it something to investigate.
You should also mist the enclosure every day. You need to dampen everything in the enclosure in the morning, and if necessary, again at night. Using a regular spray bottle might cause hand cramps, so opt for a pressure sprayer instead. You can also install a humidifier/fogger that emits a cool mist. Only run it at night for optimal benefits, and schedule it to run in small spurts rather than continuously. To avoid germ development, use distilled water and clean the entire machine at least once a week.
It's also a good idea to provide your snake with a humid hide. To avoid mold growth, you can also line a hide box/cave with wet sphagnum moss and refill it on a regular basis.
The sun provides warmth in nature, not the ground. However, reptiles burrow underground to avoid the heat and get colder, not warmer. Thus, delivering warmth from underneath with a heating pad is unnatural and will encourage abnormal behavior. Heat lamps overcome this problem by simulating the sun's effects and heating both the air and the earth underneath, keeping the snake in the enclosure warm.
You can use halogen flooding heat lamps as the most effective means of supplying heat and light to your corn snake. The objective of placing a heat lamp is to recreate sunlight, which is the major source of heat and light in a corn snake's natural habitat. Heat bulbs come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and lengths, with patterns ranging from reptile-specific brands to standard bulbs. Halogen lights from the reptile brand can function effectively, but they have a short life span.
You can place the heat lamp above the basking surface. Rather than one heating bulb, you should use two since this allows for more uniform heating over your snake's body, which is healthier for circulation and general health. When your snake is a baby, using one bulb is sufficient. However, as it grows, more will be needed.
The material is the first item to check for in corn snake bedding. Corn snakes utilize their bedding to cover their bellies while slithering about. This animal species has also been observed burrowing in it. The majority of fibers and wood chips can be used, but it is better to use the most natural option. You should also keep an eye out for fragrant woods and materials that have been treated with solvents. Corn snakes' bedding is commonly made using materials like newspapers, carpets made of reptiles, shavings of aspen, mulch made of cypress, and fibers from coconut.
Corn snakes and other reptiles dig in the natural world, so allowing them to do so in captivity is a good idea. Snake bedding can be made of aspen shavings. When burrowed into, it retains its shape while being soft enough not to harm your snake. It is absorbent and has a nicer appearance than most of the other options. This is a smart option that allows the corn snake to burrow. You can also have some paper towels placed underneath to absorb any moisture from the air.
Along with burrowing, a corn snake also likes to hide. Cork bark may be utilized to make proper hiding spots or add visual boundaries to the environment. It may also be used to create raised perches or sunbathing areas. You may make artificial trees for your pet to climb on or hide behind. Plants like golden pothos will grow in a corn snake cage, improving not only the quality of the air but also the temperature and providing hiding spots for your pet.
Skeletons and bone-like objects are not for everyone. These reptiles may be described as macabre or even infantile in nature. These animals do, however, present some very fascinating options.
Corn snakes are reptiles that eat medium-sized rodents as their principal natural prey in their box. The diet of newborn corn snakes includes lizards, small rodents, and rare natural frogs. Corn snakes can devour birds or their eggs as adults for food, along with other small animals.
As corn snakes don't identify crickets as food, crickets must not be fed to them. Hatchling mice or eggs of mice are generally eaten by newborn snakes. For a huge adult corn snake, the feed must be as large as a giant mouse. Many corn snakes learn to eat fully thawed frozen mice with time.
Infant corn snakes aren't used to seeing frozen mice in their life span. However, it normally doesn't take many training sessions to get them to accept thawed mice. Filling an empty container with a few air holes and shutting the top with your corn snake and a thawed mouse can help the snake concentrate on the meal and encourage it to eat. Make sure the lid is securely fastened, and the container is kept away from a source of heat. Cuts made into the skin of a frozen mouse guarantee that the food is digested more quickly and completely. Adult corn snakes should be fed every seven to ten days, while newborn corn snakes should be fed every five to seven days.
Here at Kidadl, we have carefully created lots of interesting family-friendly facts for everyone to enjoy! If you liked our suggestions for corn snake habitat then why not take a look at do corn snakes bite, or corn snake facts.
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